Blaser S2 Safari Regulation
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Re: blaser s2 safri
Thinking about it today I have an idea how it is done, but I'm sure there is a special tool somewhere. I think to make sure any adjustment is close we'd need to get a laser boresighter in 375H&H.
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Re: blaser s2 safri
To bring the barrels closer together, you need to tighten those 3 little screws pretty equal amounts, which after talking with John, sounds like what it needs. That tightens the wedge in there forcing the center of the barrels out and the muzzles in. I don't know how to get the elevation adjusted and Andrej, with Blaser USA told me that they have a special fixture to hold the barrels in place while adjusting the thingamajig on the muzzle end of the barrels. They are free floating, at least that is what was explained to me and to loosen that without the fixture was bad. Or so I was told.
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- mchughcb
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Re: blaser s2 safri
Well I took the fixture off the end and they pop apart. I put it back on and retightened it. Not sure if will change POI.
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Re: blaser s2 safri
Oh, I bet the POI will definitely be changed.
Let me know Please.
Let me know Please.
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- mchughcb
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Re: blaser s2 safri
Well John wants to use his handloads of 270gr woodies so everything will change. We'll see what happens, going to be interesting next week.
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Re: blaser s2 safri
Well tonight we tested the laser bullets at a factory at 50m. It appears the barrels are shooting a little off but not by much at 50m although it appears the barrels cross at 15m. Not sure why this is as my BBF barrels certainly don't. Anyway we are live testing tomorrow so with a bit of luck and my fingers cross I can work this out with John.
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- mchughcb
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Re: blaser s2 safri
Today was an exercise in patience. To cut a long story short the RWS factory 300gr factory ammo shoots the best. John's 270gr Woodie, low load duplicates the POI of both barrels. At 100m and using the scope the right barrel was left shooting 100mm high and the left barrel shoots 130mm low and about 40mm to the right from the right barrel POI. Meaning they have crossed over. John had one shot at 200m with the right barrel and it hit the bull at 200m.
Without sending it back to the factory I'm not keen to fiddle with it but john's keen to test if we can improve the regulation by reducing the stress on the wedge. Maybe it will I"m not sure.
For me the moral of the story is regulation is far easier with the standard S2 and BBF97 and be happy with the 9.3x74R.
Without sending it back to the factory I'm not keen to fiddle with it but john's keen to test if we can improve the regulation by reducing the stress on the wedge. Maybe it will I"m not sure.
For me the moral of the story is regulation is far easier with the standard S2 and BBF97 and be happy with the 9.3x74R.
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- mchughcb
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Re: blaser s2 safri
Well john has done his thing. Blaser have agreed to send out the jig so we can align these barrels in the vertical. Watch this space.
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Re: blaser s2 safri
Gee that's good service.
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Hunt with a German Shorthaired Pointer.
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Re: blaser s2 safri
Anxiously awaiting the results.
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- mchughcb
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Re: blaser s2 safri
Well now I think I have worked out the S2 Safari. John made up a jig of flat ceramic tile. We held down the monoblock onto the tile with a clamp. John cut some holes in the tile for the protruding parts. Then I unscrewed the screw holding the end cap and he clamped down the barrels with a clamp on each barrel against the tile. I then put the screw on the end cap back on and tightened it. What the clamp does is tighten on the left barrel and keeps the twist between the two at whatever angle you want. As we had clamped both barrels tightly to the tile this hopefully has squared them up as previously I'd say the right barrel was sitting about 1.5mm higher than the right barrel when the monoblock was clamped down. I also loosened off the wedge so they appear not to cross at 25m but further out.
Anyway John is going to do some more testing and if we are completely wrong we'll wait for the blaser jig and let the gunsmiths work it out.
Anyway John is going to do some more testing and if we are completely wrong we'll wait for the blaser jig and let the gunsmiths work it out.
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Re: Blaser S2 Safari Regulation
Here are some pics to give you an idea how John has setup his ceramic tile and why Blaser has a split on the left barrel to enable it to be clamped with the tightening of the end cap screw that keeps both barrels at the necessary twist to keep them level relative to each other.
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Re: Blaser S2 Safari Regulation
Regulated 1.5 " high, and 1.5" apart at 100m using 270 Woodleigh's and 64gr of 2208.
In the end it wasn't so bad but not as easy as an Allen screw.
My work is finished. Haven't met a blaser you couldn't regulate.
In the end it wasn't so bad but not as easy as an Allen screw.
My work is finished. Haven't met a blaser you couldn't regulate.
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- mchughcb
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Re: Blaser S2 Safari Regulation
Regulated 1.5 " high, and 1.5" apart at 100m using 270 Woodleigh's and 64gr of 2208.
In the end it wasn't so bad but not as easy as an Allen screw.
My work is finished. Haven't met a blaser you couldn't regulate.
In the end it wasn't so bad but not as easy as an Allen screw.
My work is finished. Haven't met a blaser you couldn't regulate.
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- mchughcb
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Re: Blaser S2 Safari Regulation
This is how we did it.
First get a flat piece of board (wood/ceramic). Cut a hole in the board so that the monoblock hooks can fit in and the end of the monoblock is near the end. Lay it down flat and then use a wood clamp to clamp the monoblock tight to the board tight. The muzzle should just be over the other end of the board so that you can access the torx screw on the barrel cap whilst it is pinned down. Next insert two, 1.5mm spaces under each barrel. Slightly loosen the torx screw. The split will open and allow the barrels twist. Now clamp each barrel really tight to board with the spaces underneath. When everything is tight then retightened the torx screw on the barrel cap and the split will close and tighten on the left barrel. This will lock the left barrel relative to the right barrel.
Test fire and you should see that both bullets are level or very close to level. If not repeat with different spaces if required until they are level. I'd then consider putting Loctite on the screw so it never easily comes loose again.
Now if the barrels are crossing too early, you need to loosen the wedge in the centre. There are three 2mm allen key screws there. Loosen the two outer ones first then with only 1/8 of a turn slowly undo until you get the barrels crossing at the regulated distance.
Should probably make this a sticky.
First get a flat piece of board (wood/ceramic). Cut a hole in the board so that the monoblock hooks can fit in and the end of the monoblock is near the end. Lay it down flat and then use a wood clamp to clamp the monoblock tight to the board tight. The muzzle should just be over the other end of the board so that you can access the torx screw on the barrel cap whilst it is pinned down. Next insert two, 1.5mm spaces under each barrel. Slightly loosen the torx screw. The split will open and allow the barrels twist. Now clamp each barrel really tight to board with the spaces underneath. When everything is tight then retightened the torx screw on the barrel cap and the split will close and tighten on the left barrel. This will lock the left barrel relative to the right barrel.
Test fire and you should see that both bullets are level or very close to level. If not repeat with different spaces if required until they are level. I'd then consider putting Loctite on the screw so it never easily comes loose again.
Now if the barrels are crossing too early, you need to loosen the wedge in the centre. There are three 2mm allen key screws there. Loosen the two outer ones first then with only 1/8 of a turn slowly undo until you get the barrels crossing at the regulated distance.
Should probably make this a sticky.