K95 Problem

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ebrownw2
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K95 Problem

Post by ebrownw2 »

So I bought a K95 second hand a while back, but just got around to shooting it for the first time today and encountered a problem. First, the firing pin scratches he brass. Is this normal? I don't recall my previous K95 doing that. It seems like that might be unsafe. Second problem was that it will not close on my 270 handloads. I first sighted it in with some Hornady factory ammo. Then I was ready to test the various loads I'd made up, but the action would not close on them. My initial thought was that they must be too long, but they are loaded to the Berger manual's spec of 3.34" coal. I looked at the Nosler and it recommends 3.32" so that's pretty darn close. However I measured one of the factory loads that I was shooting and they are only 3.24". The reloads chamber fine in my R8 270 barrel.

Also, after firing the 22 hornet Hornady 35 grain loads he action was stiff to open. It opened fine with the Hornady 45 grain loads. It was also stiff to open after shooting the 270 factory loads. Is this an indication of a problem? Again, my previous K95 never did that either.

Appreciate any help or advice. I'm guessing it'll be taking a trip to San Antonio so it looks like I'll need to get my R8 ready for my upcoming Colorado elk and deer hunt instead.

ebrownw2
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by ebrownw2 »

I should add that the firing pin slightly protrudes from the tilting block, hence the scratching of the base of the brass. I don't believe it should be like that, but would appreciate other K95 owners looking at theirs to confirm.

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stokesrj
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by stokesrj »

I suspect the not closing issue is not related to COL but base to shoulder datum line. It probably just needs the shoulder bumped back a little by adjusting your sizing die by screwing it in just a little. The proper way to do this is to measure a fired case and then adjust the sizing die so that it bumps the shoulder back by .003".
I've never had my K95 act stiff to open, but I have the BD14 and found that lubricating the Jager Block solved the issue. But as you are already thinking having Andre look it over for both the firing pin and stiff opening would be the smart thing to do.
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by Dinger »

I had a closing problem with my K95 that I traced back to primer pocket depth....the combination of RWS brass and Federal primers when not seated very firmly would stop the action from fully closing. It felt quite solid, the best way to describe it was like a screw driver had been placed laterally through action as you closed it.

If the primers were the slightest bit proud the action would not close. It was quite random and caused me much concern until I realised it was the ammunition, not the rifle at fault, and went back through every round feeding them through the K95, isolating the culprits.

I have to get a primer pocket uniformer and introduce to my reloading work flow.

ebrownw2
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by ebrownw2 »

Bob, if that were the case would I not encounter the same problem chambering them in my R8? I will see if I can adjust my sizing die down a little and load another batch....after I get the firing pin issue solved. No need in fooling with it anymore until then. It is only stiff to open the action after a shot has been fired. When unloaded it flops right open nice and easy.

Dinger, thanks for the tip. I believe they are firmly seated but I will double check that as well.

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Re: K95 Problem

Post by SPEEDY »

Probably not, on the R8 its push from behind, but on a hinged action them there would be mechanical advantage at play increasing the resistance on the action closing as it would act as a wedge.
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ebrownw2
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by ebrownw2 »

Here's pics of what the firing pin is doing to the brass and PRIMER as I close the action. No bueno. And a pic of the firing pin. Anybody else ever have one like that?
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SPEEDY
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by SPEEDY »

No thats definitely not the primer causing that, its scraping the case too, I'm thinking the firing pin is oversized.
I would either get it replaced or if you are careful abd have a good mechanical understanding you could with some calipers and a diamond stone etc remove a .05-.5 at the range off of it until its no longer a problem.

But that is a guess, so definitely wait till someone with more experience etc then me chips in, or you get your hands on a spare firing pin.

But I gave done that to a shotgun before that was doing something similar.
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ebrownw2
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by ebrownw2 »

It seems a given that the gun not closing is a result of something in my novice reloading lack of skills since the factory loads do not have the same issue. Once I have the firing pin replaced or repaired I'll figure that out. As it is now Im not sure it is safe to close the action on a live round (even though I did so around 20 times this morning without incident). Here's a pic of my reload with a 150gr Berger VLD Hunting bullet next to a Hornady factory load (130gr SST). Upon close inspection I see some slight differences so Bob is probably right and that particular problem is probably related to something I did wrong while resizing the brass. This was my first attempt at reloading for 270 and it's been over a year since I reloaded anything. And that was my first time when I made the loads for my son's africa hunt for his 375HH and my 500 NE. So I am very wet behind the ears in this reloading stuff.
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stokesrj
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by stokesrj »

ebrownw2 wrote:Bob, if that were the case would I not encounter the same problem chambering them in my R8
Not necessarily, it is quite common for headspace to vary some so it could be that your R8 has a more generous headspace than your K95 and both be in tolerance. You did say that it closed fully and easily on factory loads, correct? Most Blaser's have a very generous freebore so unless the bullets are seated way long that isn't usually what first causes a problem. More often I've seen it be the shoulder position of the case cause the problem. That is why I suggested it. I have all the tools to measure everything to be sure, but unfortunately they are in Florida, and I'm headed to Europe again shortly.
As to the firing pin dragging, it could be that the firing pin return spring is broken and not retracting the firing pin so that the mechanical action of opening the action is what retracts it, plowing a path through the primer and rim along the way. You can easily check this by removing the jager block as you already have done and pushing the firing pin forward from the rear. In doing so you should feel the resistance of the spring returning the firing pin to the rear so as it is not protruding.
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stokesrj
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by stokesrj »

Seeing the pic of your loaded rounds it is possible that your bullet ogive is contacting the lands. Just seat one way deeper and see if that clears it up. If not then it probably is the shoulder position.
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by SPEEDY »

Actually I must have skipped over the fact its only happening with reloads, in that case its definitely a case of well the case, being oversized that is.
Tge wedge factor and difference in chamber lengths definitely explains the difference.
As others have said bump your shoulders back.

The best thing to do in this case is size and prime a case at home, fire it with the barrel wrapped in a towel and then unload it.
Keep turning the die invand testing until you no longer have a problem.
Actual loaded rounds might need a touch more shortening as the case expansion when a live round is fired can't be replicated at home.
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by Corjack »

Hope this helps
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dchamp
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by dchamp »

Now is the time to get yourself a gold locking lug. :mrgreen:

Also, you may want to invest in a Hornady OAL Length Gauge, bullet comparator and headspace comparator for any calibers you're going to load for. But to start, if you have a bullet puller, pull a bullet out of one of rounds that don't want to chamber, empty it of powder to see if it is indeed a case problem or a bullet problem.

I think Bob is probably right with the firing pin spring. From your photo you definitely have a firing pin or bolt problem. I saw this happen on a 1911 once and it went bang when my son chambered a round in the house. We were lucky.
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by Dinger »

Mine just had a general scuff mark on the heel of the brass and the heel of the primer.

I'd be looking at that firing pin first as suggested.....oversize brass or not, that shouldn't happen.

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