Blaser F3 Wood Grade

[p3t3rsn]

Evening all,

I am looking for some input on wood grades.

My local gun shop (LGS) has a Blaser F3 Sporting Competition on sale for a $1k below standard MSRP. However, it’s the wood grade that I am concerned about. The LGS believes it’s a Grade 6 wood, though I have doubts and believe it to be a grade 4. Would be interested in hearing other’s opinions. Here are the pics the LGS sent me:

F86B18A8-4C53-4EB2-ADAE-20589F35868E.jpeg

0979B734-2209-4A65-89A2-C8071C78BC4D.jpeg

27B4D2D1-9FF6-4434-9768-36FC9CD46450.jpeg

2A3CE1E1-F76E-4509-8965-F77627094B3F.jpeg

[9.3x64]

This is my grade 4 wood.
But you have to be careful when making assessment on wood grades.

[secondtry]

Somewhere on the Blaser site, and definitely in the catalog, are examples of wood grades. The examples shown are at the upper end of each grade. You could also check what is specified as the standard grade for that gun.

Wood grade has to do with more than just how pretty it looks to us simple folks. Direction of the grain, particularly through the grip, grain tightness and general structural integrity of the blank all play a part in the grading process.

In the case of the OP, the grain looks very open through the grip and also runs ACROSS the grip, rather than in line with it. This weakens the grip, so whilst it's pretty, it doesn't stack up well elsewhere.

Compare it with 9.3s pics of a G4 and it's hard to believe that the F3 shown is G6.

Blaser in Germany would know exactly what grade was fitted to that particular shotgun when manufactured. Supplying the serial number to Blaser would get a definite answer, but may take some time with the covid problems.

[p3t3rsn]

That’s gents for reconfirming my suspicion. I did look at the Blaser wood grades website but none really looked like this one. Actually there is so little straight grain structure, I was surprised to see Blaser using it at all.

Wood grade has to do with more than just how pretty it looks to us simple folks. Direction of the grain, particularly through the grip, grain tightness and general structural integrity of the blank all play a part in the grading process.

In the case of the OP, the grain looks very open through the grip and also runs ACROSS the grip, rather than in line with it. This weakens the grip, so whilst it's pretty, it doesn't stack up well elsewhere.

Agreed. Coming from the world of custom Mauser bolt action rifles, grain structure and layout outweighs the appearance.

[stokesrj]

I think it is really subjective, but when I visited the Blaser Factory I had the opportunity to look through all the stocks they had in all the various grades all the way to grade 11. I've owned several grade 6 stocks on various Blaser guns and they have varied wildly. I sometimes like a grade 4 much better than a grade 6. I would say there is a good chance that the picture of this particular F3 stock could be either grade 4, 5 or 6.

[p3t3rsn]

Thanks Bob for weighing in, I certainly appreciate your input. As I am shopping around for an F3, I am noticing the grading is varying wildly as you mentioned.

I just found a stone mint F3 competition game (manufactured 2013) with a much straighter grain flow grade 5 stock and less than flat of shells through it for $3500 less than the one above. Contemplating going this route which leads me to a couple questions. With the Game model, how does the Game stock handle (compared to Sporting) and is losing the adjustable weights meaningful?

[stokesrj]

I had the sporting model and shot it well, however, I shot my Beretta DT11 with the Bfast adjustable cheek piece about 2% better on a 100 bird sporting course, and I attribute that solely to the cheek piece aligning my eye ever so slightly since I shoot the same score with my Benellis when adjusted properly.
I found no benefit to the adjustable weights with my F3 but that is a matter of personal taste not scientifically proven.
I also like the forend shape of the game model better than the competition model and as far as I can tell stock dimensions are the same except the pistol grip. If it were me I would choose the completion because of the adjustable cheek piece unless the game model has that also or could be added within the price savings which will be around $400.

[p3t3rsn]

One of my thoughts going with this virtually unused F3 Game, is I can take the $4000+ after tax savings and purchase a much higher grade adjustable stock from Blaser and still be ahead financially. However, this F3 Game model has the 29.25" barrels.

I had the sporting model and shot it well, however, I shot my Beretta DT11 with the Bfast adjustable cheek piece about 2% better on a 100 bird sporting course, and I attribute that solely to the cheek piece aligning my eye ever so slightly since I shoot the same score with my Benellis when adjusted properly.

If you don’t mind me asking Bob, what barrel lengths did you go with on your F3 and DT11?

[stokesrj]

My F3 had 32” barrels and my DT11 has 30” which I find works better for me on the sporting course.

[MM]

I just look at the wood and go with what I like.

[p3t3rsn]

Thanks gents for your input.

[F3Competition]

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Hello Gents,
Below are photos of the wood set for my F3 competition that was replaced by Blaser USA because the original cracked. The photo lighting is different but the coloring is actual the same on both sides. My original stock was grade 4 and F3's are now stocked with a minimum grade 5 wood. Andrej at Blaser USA didn't want committ to what grade the replacement wood is,he just said he had two sets on his shelf and he picked the nicest one. Of note my receiver was also replaced due to the Nitride finish wearing off on a 3 year old gun. It was the dealer rather than Blaser that supplied the receiver(it's a long story).