First Time Blaser Owner/User Primer

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Corjack
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First Time Blaser Owner/User Primer

Post by Corjack » Mon Mar 02, 2015 1:01 pm

Congratulations on your purchase of a new or used Blaser firearm. You own a finely crafted firearm, that we have found to be about as safe as any man made device to date. Also out of the box accuracy is about as good as most discriminating sportsmen need to cover most sporting situations.

Here are a few things that seem to pop up with new users.

Bolt operation.

The Blaser bolt is designed to be closed with authority. In situations where silence is desired, push forward slowly, but firmly until it stops. If the bolt handle breaks off, you pushed too hard. (A bit of humor here. Hopefully you get used to it.) Sometimes new users operate bolt too mildly, not allowing bolt to come fully into battery. Then when fired you get the dreaded click. This is normal, as the bolt has built in safety's so that rifle will not fire when not in battey resulting in an undesirable situation.

Scope mounts

On the right side of the proprietary Blaser scope mount, there is a disc that looks like a cut up pizza. This is where you tension the mount, to fit your barrel, or when you swap mount from one barrel to another. In the US the mount comes with a short screwdriver, with a thin blade. Other countries I am told, the screwdriver is available from your Blaser dealer. Back both screws off a bit, remember righty tighty, lefty losey. Unfold scope mount levers, throw them forward, and place in notches on barrel. Then turn them into place. Now adjust tension with screwdriver to get a tension on your throw levers, that requires enough force to turn with out bruising your fingers. I like mine pretty snug, but maybe more than is actually required. Some users have gotten a bit carried away, and actually broken levers off. In those cases they had the tension a bit too tight.(More humor)

The four screws in the tops of scope mounts are T10 torx. Be sure they are screwed in squarely in the case of aluminium rings, and being T10, over tightening is easy to do. That is why there are four, rather than two. They do not need to be so tight you strip out the holes.

Disassembly/assembly and its effect on point of impact

Most of us tend to agree that taking your Blaser apart, removing scope, and reassembling has no significant change on POI. Especially for standard hunting ranges. I personally have experienced this repeatability. Never concerns me in the least these days.

Scope Mount Height

The standard low Blaser scope mount, will accommodate a 50mm objective with ease, and a 56mm in most cases.

Barrel Torque

When installing a barrel in the frame, I used the T handle Allen wrench, and torqe it until the wrench it has a slight flex to it. That is more than adequate.

R8 trigger guard and magazine.

When seating the trigger guard and magazine, seat it firmly, until it locks. Inside when looking at the top, with bolt open. There is a slide button in the bottom. This button can be slide with your finger to lock trigger assembly in place.

Lubrication/Cleaning

I have found that Blasers function best with minimal lubrication. I have found, as others have, a bit of lube on the slide rails, seem to make the bolt operate in a in a slick as glass manner. Excessive grease, or lubes on bolt internal are not needed, as they usually just allow grit, and dirt to cling to inner workings, where dirt, or grit, could cause an unsatisfactory situation.

The nitrided finish on Blasers is reported to be better than stainless steel. However maintanence is required, or corrosion will result. A light mist of high quality gun oil on a cleaning cloth, and a wipedown of exterior steel after use is always recommended.

Bore cleaning is a whole different subject, and the are a lot of opinions, on the frequency and manner of cleaning bores. My recommendation is to ask you friends what they are doing, research it in books, and on the Internet, and decide what's best for you.

Blaser Triggers

Most of us feel you will find the factory Blaser trigger to be excellent. However it does occasionally come up about the adjustment of Blaser triggers. Pre 2005 R93s had a joint trigger, and the weight could be adjusted by exchanging springs. From 2005 on the R93 had a sear type trigger, and to change weight safely it has to have a different sear, and a spring. This should not be attempted by anyone other than a Blaser trained specialist.

I can not speak for other countries, but in the US, we have a great asset with the gunsmiths at BlaserUSA. They should always be consulted before attempting such modifications. R8s have a sear trigger, and too my knowledge it is something the user should not crack open.

The Blaser system being a bit different than what you are used to, can occasionally cause you to encounter things you are not familiar with. In that case we at Blasebuds are here to help. Just ask anytime. Also if you are in the U.S., I know from personal experience the staff at BlaseUSA are very helpful. Contact your dealer or distributor and ask questions. They are there to help.

I will add to this as I think of other small things that trouble new users.


There are no fleas on the 9.3s


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