K95 Problem

[mchughcb]

Maybe or slightly release the fore stock screw. I've done this a few times on my BBF97 when it got too stiff or loose.

[thechamp]

Good to hear you got it pretty well worked out. Tom is a great guy that hasn't gotten much publicity here on the forum. Everybody is familiar with Andre and knows how good a gunsmith and how good a person he is. Tom came on board probably 2 years ago, maybe 3, (time flies) and he's also an excellent smith and just as personable as Andre. They have two super young men there in San Antonio. Might look for them at the shows that Blaser USA has exhibits in and if they're there take the opportunity to introduce yourself to them. I don't make many of them anymore and due to medical problems won't be in Dallas this year. First Dallas show that I'll have missed in quite a while. I suspect I won't miss much new stuff but it is a good show and always nice to see the guys from the various manufacturers who's equipment I swear by.

[deeangeo]

I suspect the not closing issue is not related to COL but base to shoulder datum line. It probably just needs the shoulder bumped back a little by adjusting your sizing die by screwing it in just a little. The proper way to do this is to measure a fired case and then adjust the sizing die so that it bumps the shoulder back by .003".
I've never had my K95 act stiff to open, but I have the BD14 and found that lubricating the Jager Block solved the issue. But as you are already thinking having Andre look it over for both the firing pin and stiff opening would be the smart thing to do.

I'd definitely second the case shoulder needing to be bumped back slightly. Just a couple of thou. can make the difference.

Personally, I'd move the die into the press no more than 1/4 turn and size a case. Then by trial & error test the resized case in the K95, adjusting the die in little by little, until you end up with a smoothly locking action on the sized case.

If you have the tools to measure the fired case headspace then, you can adjust as Robert suggests.
Cheers & good luck

[Mckay]

See the gooey green hole? That is an extremely small torx screw in there that locks in the depth of the firing pin extrusion. Loosen that. Then on the back of the locking lug use a slotted spanner to adjust the firing pin extrusion. Then reset the torx screw. Cant recall from memory but I think it is a T1 or T2. Cant remember if it is the smallest in my set or not. Very easy to adjust to get that firing pin so it sets just below the breach.

[gunhunter]

I finally adjusted my firing pin. I had to use a 1/16" (.0625") allen wrench on the set screw. I tried a 1.5mm (too small at .0590") and a 2mm (too big at .0787") that didn't work. The torx did not fit mine. I did not have a slotted spanner for the firing pin extrusion, so I filed another bit down which worked. It was a Ruger Double Action Revolver Ejector Retainer bit (080-432-001) from Brownells. It took a lot of filing (too wide and center was too small) and was slow, so I'd not recommend it unless you are desperate. I was at Brownells, so I took a chance. I only needed about 1/4 turn, and it turns very easy.

Now I have to get to the range.

[stokesrj]

Glad to hear you got it worked out.

[SPEEDY]

And here I thought the only problem when you bought a K95 was trying to resist buying another one.

[Chamois71]

Realize it is not the same gun, but I had the same issue with the firing pin scraping my brass on my Merkel K3. The problem was easily solved by loosening the set screw on the side of the Jaeger block and then turning back the firing pin housing a bit which contains the firing pin and has ability to set its depth and then retightening the set screw. Probably be easier with pics, but I am unable to send any at the moment.

[MM]

I just returned from a hunt and had a similar problem. After my rifle bounced around in planes trucks and an atv for a couple days the rifle refused to open. After shaking and jiggling I was able to open the rifle. I thought dust or dirt had jammed it up so I cleaned it and got any dust out. I noticed that it would not close on my ammo which I had checked before leaving home and the rifle would not cock when it would close on the ammo. I finally figured out that the little set screw with the green paint came loose and the firing pin backed out and was protruding into the hole in the receiver that the striker comes out of to hit the firing pin. I readjusted everything and tightened it down but I need to find out if this can/should use loctite and what kind. I am also wondering if that is not properly adjusted could it effect the ability of the rifle to close on ammo as others have observed and assumed it was due to their reloads?

[snookntarpon]

Doing that to mine now...

[secondtry]

I wonder if this problem arises with rifles that have had the same owner from new, or only those that have been purchased second hand ?

Perhaps previous owners have created the problem, as some people see a screw and can't resist fiddling with it.

[SPEEDY]

Mine has no problem with the firing pin if primers are seated fully, but yes I have had to set my dies in a little deeper to make sure they chamber.

[gillie]

Morning all

I see the last post on this subject was more than a year ago. I shot my new K95 for the first time yesterday and experienced the same issue as described, well at least just the rifle not wanting to close with a hand-loaded round loaded in the chamber. Our first "guess" was that it could be the shoulders that needed top be bumped back a bit more... And this is exactly why I joined this forum, to learn from experienced K95 owners. So last night I resized the cases again after turning the die in a tad further in the press. Hopefully this will sort the problem. I also checked the primers just to be safe.

Have a good one

[SPEEDY]

Good luck with it

[MM]

I hope that works for you. I full length size all my cases used in my K95 and I make sure they all allow the rifle to close and to be cocked before I take them hunting. Tolerances are very tight on these rifles.
Matt