K95 Problem

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ebrownw2
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by ebrownw2 »

Well, I think I've sorted this all out. It turned out to be combination of problems.

Corjack gave me a call and suggested I try an unloaded brass sized the same to see if the action would close. I did, and it did. So I thought that ruled out the shoulder, and the bullets just needed seated deeper. But then I tried another one and it would not. So, since I knew at least one round had fit in the R8 and therefore the R8 could handle the length the bullet was seated I used it to test the shoulders. I cycled all 50 pieces of brass I had sized through my R8 and the bolt would close on only 40 of them. So, I have some shoulder problems. Turned my sizing die down and resized all the unloaded ones until the K95 would close on all. Shoved the Bergers in a little farther on the loaded ones until it would close (3.300") and then a little more to be safe and seated all the bullets at 3.284" and then tried them all in the K95. It closed on all but 2. So those two need resized I reckon.

Now you might be wondering why I was closing the K95 on all these loaded rounds with the firing pin dragging across the primer. I wasn't because that problem was already fixed. I called Blaser-USA and talked to Tom, a resident gunsmith. He said I could send it to them if I wanted, but it was an easy fix and I could do it. You know that green dot on the side of the tilting block? That's a blob of paint hiding the head of a set screw with a tiny hex head. When you back it out you can then thread the firing pin in or out from the rear of the block to adjust it's depth until it is just below flush, and then just re-tighten the set screw. Took me longer to find the proper sized allen wrench then it did to fix it. Thanks Tom!

So, now I can try out my loads. Looks like the K95 will get to see Colorado after all :D

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mchughcb
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by mchughcb »

Good work Eddie. As bad as it sounds, thank the gods you weren't trying to regulate a 375H&H S2 at 200m :lol:

ebrownw2
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by ebrownw2 »

Chuck, I must have missed that one or else it was before I became a BB. Will go look for it now. Sounds like a recipe for a sore shoulder :D

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mchughcb
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by mchughcb »

Save you time. Here was an odyssey of discovery.

viewtopic.php?f=39&t=11254

dchamp
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by dchamp »

I glade it was that easy and it's good to about the bolt and firing pin, who'd a thunk.
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Dinger
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by Dinger »

Code: Select all

That's a blob of paint hiding the head of a set screw with a tiny hex head. When you back it out you can then thread the firing pin in or out from the rear of the block to adjust it's depth until it is just below flush, and then just re-tighten the set screw. Took me longer to find the proper sized allen wrench then it did to fix it. Thanks Tom
Good to know for future reference...thanks for the info.

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stokesrj
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by stokesrj »

I wonder how it got out of adjustment to begin with?
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ebrownw2
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by ebrownw2 »

I've wondered the same thing. I feel certain the set screw had not been disturbed because the green paint filled the head. It was tight, so had not worked loose. Perhaps it had been that way from day one? An error in it's original assembly?

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stokesrj
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by stokesrj »

Perhaps, I just can't believe anyone would put up with that.
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Corjack
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by Corjack »

After you shoot it a bit, and make sure it is 100%, I would get a bottle of clear fingernail polish, and dab a bit on that screw head, so it dies not work loose.
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SPEEDY
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by SPEEDY »

Dinger wrote:

Code: Select all

That's a blob of paint hiding the head of a set screw with a tiny hex head. When you back it out you can then thread the firing pin in or out from the rear of the block to adjust it's depth until it is just below flush, and then just re-tighten the set screw. Took me longer to find the proper sized allen wrench then it did to fix it. Thanks Tom
Good to know for future reference...thanks for the info.
Second that, not many firing pins are adjustable.
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ebrownw2
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by ebrownw2 »

Corjack wrote:After you shoot it a bit, and make sure it is 100%, I would get a bottle of clear fingernail polish, and dab a bit on that screw head, so it dies not work loose.
Agreed. I suspect that is what that green "paint" is there for.

dchamp
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by dchamp »

Just pondering... I wonder if its green sealant or if it's green loctite. Not that it makes any difference but you did say, I think, you bought it used. I can't imagine why anyone would adjust its setting unless they were getting light primer strikes and then over did it. It is puzzling.
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gunhunter
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by gunhunter »

I have the same problem with my K95. I didn't like the drag marks, but I assumed the rifle just did it. Mine came new as a 308. It leaves the marks with factory ammo in 308 and in a second barrel in 257 Weatherby.

Thanks for making me aware of the problem and the fix. I haven't checked the rifle yet, but I bet the green paint is still there. Since I've never touched the hex screw or moved the firing pin, I believe it was originally assembled that way.

ebrownw2
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Re: K95 Problem

Post by ebrownw2 »

Interesting. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions during the process.

I'm looking forward to seeing if the firing pin adjustment fixed the stiff opening after firing issue. I suspect it did not. Seems to me if that were the cause it would have done it on the 45gr hornet loads as well. Perhaps I just need to lubricate the block as Bob did on his bd14.

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